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Imperial Jewels
exceptional jewels presented at the auction come from the collections of the Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria (1870-1902), of the Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany (1878-1968) and the Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen (1845-1927), as well as the Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria (1861-1948) and of Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma (1870-1899). At the Viennese court the fashion trends were dictated by the Emperor Franz Joseph (1830-1916) and by his legendary and beautiful wife, the Empress Elisabeth (1837- 1898), best remembered as 'Sissi'. When the German court artist Franz Xaver Winterhalter immortalised Sissi in 1865, embellishing her elaborate hairstyle with a composition of diamond jewels in the shape of a star, she started a trend for versatile star-shaped jewels, which lasted for all the late 19th century. The auction showcases a gracious suite of three stars of diamonds, which can be worn as brooches, hairpins or on a mounting for tiara (estimate: 9,000-13,000 CHF). The natural pearls also reigned supreme during the 19th century: the strong point of the
collection is an extraordinary ornament in the form of a bodice, conceived as a wreath which supports exceptional natural pearls. It was donated to the Archduchess Maria Therese of Austria-Teschen (1845- 1927) as a wedding present in 1865 (estimate: 270,000 -450,000 CHF). This is undoubtedly the most significant jewel of the 19th century to be auctioned in recent years.
In alto: spilla a forma di spiga floreale, il capolino centrale incastonato con un diamante taglio cuscino all'interno di un bordo di diamanti rosa, con diamanti taglio cuscino. Dalla collezione della Principessa Eudossia di Bulgaria (1898-1985). Fine XIX
secolo. A fianco: spilla composta da una perla naturale a bottone leggermente barocca, all’interno di un bordo di diamanti taglio cuscino, a cui è sospeso un pendente staccabile composto da una perla naturale a goccia, leggermente barocca. Dalla collezione dell'Arciduchessa Maria Teresa d'Austria-Teschen, Duchessa di Württemberg (1845-1927). Circa 1865.
Top: brooch in the shape of floral spray, the
central flowerhead set with a cushion-
shaped diamond inside a border of rose
diamonds, with cushion-shaped diamonds.
From the collection of Princess Eudoxia of
Bulgaria (1898-1985). Late 19th century. At the side: brooch composed of a slightly baroque button- shaped natural pearl, inside a border of cushion-shaped diamonds, from which is suspended a detachable pendant composed of a natural drop-shaped pearl, slightly baroque. From the collection of the Archduchess Maria Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg (1845-1927). Circa 1865.
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