Page 80 - 18 KARATI GOLD&FASHION 222

THE ALLURE OF MYSTERY
The Mystery-Set Brooches
T he technique of the “Mystery-set” has been vastly applied in a series of floral brooches, produced over time by the Maison. To confirm the idea that it is not the floral motif but the extraordinary setting to be iconic, a brooch of Van Cleef & Arpels with a flower of sapphires and diamonds was sold at auction in
2020 by Sotheby’s New York for 1,109,000 dollars, nine times the maximum estimate. Flowers, always a favourite theme of the Maison, also decorate the Pivoine (Poppy) and Chrysanthem (Chrysanthemum) brooches as well as the famous Rose brooch created for the Egyptian court, embellished with 614 rubies and 214 emeralds. The decorations applied in the 1940s and 1950s often highlight the leaf motifs (ivy, vine, American sycamore, holly). Some of the models of this kind were created exclusively for the Duchess of Windsor, in particular a double feathered brooch (or holly leaves), purchased in 1936 by King Edward VIII as a Christmas present for his future
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In alto: spilla a forma di fiore con petali in zaffiro taglio calibré, lo stelo e le foglie impreziositi da diamanti taglio rotondo e taglio marquise, circa 1965. Sopra: bracciale composto da un cinturino flessibile di zaffiri taglio calibré, bordato da diamanti tondi, montatura in platino e oro 18 Kt, circa 1966.
Top: flower shaped brooch with petals in calibré cut sapphires, the stem and leaves embellished with round and marquise cut diamonds, circa 1965. Above: bracelet composed of a flexible strap of calibré cut sapphires, edged with round diamonds, set in platinum and 18 Kt gold, approx. 1966.