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FASHIONABLE ANTIQUES
THE CASTELLANI STYLE
Among the many factors that led to the archaeological revival of jewellery from the 18th century, a crucial element was the rediscovery of the essential cultural unity of the European continent, which the historical events from the early Middle Ages had taken away. The new signs launched by the most incisive events of the century were the first revelations of a new civilisation which was taking shape: the railway connections opened from 1840 among the magnificent cultural and political capitals of Europe, the treasures discovered in Pompei and Ercolano, Napoleon’s campaigns in Egypt. All phenomena which were decisive in determining the impulse that led to the acquisitions, often forced, of the treasures which the centuries had buried, but not fully destroyed, new and unexpected sources of inspiration from ancient jewels just recovered and often transferred to museums and galleries. During the revaluation of archaeological- style jewels, several names have left an indelible mark in modern jewellery history. This list is dominated by the name of Fortunato Pio Castellani together with that of his
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In alto, a sinistra: spilla con motivo centrale
a croce, in micromosaico bianco e rosso,
bordata da una serie di quadrati in
micromosaico blu, giallo e rosso, su fondo in
micromosaico verde (Ph. Christie’s). Dall’alto in
senso orario: spilla in micromosaico di forma
circolare raffigurante un pappagallo posato su un ramo,
fondo bianco, cornice in smalti blu e bianco (Ph. Christie’s); spilla in oro e micromosaico circolare, raffigurante una colomba che impugna un ramo di alloro, composto da tessere nei toni del bianco, grigio, turchese, oliva e oro, entro una cornice a corda, circa 1865 (Ph. Sotheby’s); spilla 'Medusa' in oro e micromosaico, le tessere raffiguranti la testa di Medusa su fondo crema, entro cornice dorata con dettagli a corda, anteriore al 1888 (Ph. Sotheby’s); spilla in oro 'Millefiori', di forma bombata, decorata con un grappolo di fiori, il bordo ornato con maglie d'oro, circa 1860 (Ph. Sotheby’s).
Top, left: brooch with cross motif at the centre, in white and red micromosaic, bordered by a series of blue, yellow and red micromosaic squares, on a background in green micromosaic (Ph. Christie’s). From the top clockwise: circular micromosaic brooch, depicting a parrot on a branch, white background, frame in blue and white enamels (Ph. Christie’s); gold and micromosaic circular brooch, depicting a dove brandishing a branch of laurel, composed of white, grey, turquoise, olive and gold tesserae, inside a cord frame, circa 1865 (Ph. Sotheby’s); gold and micromosaic ‘Medusa’ brooch, tesserae depicting the Medusa head on cream background, inside gilded frame with cord details, before 1888 (Ph. Sotheby’s); gold ‘Millefiori’ brooch, of bombé shape, decorated with a bunch of flowers, the border embellished by gold
links, circa 1860 (Ph. Sotheby’s).