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THE ALLURE
OF MYSTERY
T he innovation of one of the most revolutionary jewellery techniques ever to appear in the field of gem setting, the MYSTERY-SET, also called SERTI MYSTÉRIEUX, patented by the Maison in 1933, is thanks to the innovative and multiform genius of Alfred Van Cleef and the vast gemmological knowledge of
Julien Arpels. Inspired by the Roman micro-mosaic of the 19th century, this method allows gems, usually rubies, sapphires and diamonds, to be set without the mount visible, obtaining an ingenious play of lights and shadows filtered through the surface. The “Mystery-set” is a sophisticated and complex idea which adds a new dimension to the world of jewellery. According to the French jewellery historian Vincent Meylan, Van Cleef improved a method which others had tried to perfect since as far back as the Rinascimento. “Artisan goldsmiths have always aimed at the ideal goal of highlighting the gems reducing the metal structure to a minimum, the setting which keeps them next to each other in necklaces, brooches and earrings”. “It is a delicate process for rubies and sapphires, which are not hard like diamonds, but it is a miracle for the emerald, which is a much more fragile gem”, writes Meylan. Instead of metal prongs, the “Mystery-set” uses a lattice of delicate gold or platinum
In alto, da sinistra: spilla a forma di fiore con grappolo di diamanti tondi al centro, petali in zaffiri taglio calibré, foglie in diamanti taglio marquise e baguette, stelo staccabile, montatura in platino; orecchini a clip tempestati da zaffiri taglio calibré e diamanti taglio rotondo, platino 950, oro bianco 18 Kt. A fianco: anello di forma bombata, con diamante quadrato taglio smeraldo al centro, incorniciato da zaffiri taglio calibré, montatura in platino.
Top, from left: flower shaped brooch with cluster of round diamonds at the centre, petals in calibré cut sapphires, leaves in marquise and baguette cut diamonds, detachable stem, set in platinum; clip earrings studded with calibré cut sapphires and round cut diamonds, 950 platinum, 18 Kt white gold. At the side: dome shaped ring, with square emerald cut diamond at the centre, framed by calibré cut sapphires, set in platinum.
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